Cutting layout - burdafashion.com

Cutting layout

The cutting layout shows the most economical placement of the pattern pieces on our original fabric. On many fabrics, the selvages are stiffer than the rest of the fabric. For this reason, we do not include the selvages in the fabric calculations. If the fabric is to be folded to cut out the fabric pieces, the right fabric side should be facing in. If pieces are to be cut from a single layer of fabric, the right fabric side always faces up in our cutting layouts.

	This is the ideal cutting layout (see the illustration, left): The fabric is folded in half lengthwise and all pattern pieces are lying in the same direction. This means that all fabrics can be used, even fabrics with a pattern direction or a direction of nap.
If the lower edges of the pattern pieces don't lie in the same direction – as in this cutting layout (upper right) – you must be careful. In this case, the fabric cannot have a pattern directon or a direction of nap. You must also be careful when the fabric is folded widthwise instead of lengthwise, as shown in our example (below right). Once again, in this case, the fabric cannot have a pattern directon or a direction of nap. Important: All pattern pieces which are outlined in our cutting layout with a solid line should be pinned to the fabric with their printed sides facing up. Pattern pieces which are outlined with a broken line should be pinned to the fabric with their printed sides facing down.
	In this cutting layout (left) the fabric is folded so that both lengthwise edges are fold edges. It is important that the fabric is folded exactly along the straight grain. The cutting instructions indicate the width by which each selvage should be folded onto the fabric.
	Pattern pieces which are shown in the cutting layout extending over the fabric fold (left) are to be cut last from a single layer of fabric.
To do this, spread the remaining fabric on the cutting surface, with the wrong fabric side facing up. Pin the pattern piece to the fabric. If necessary, mark the seam and/or hem allowances around the edges of the pattern piece (right) and cut out the first fabric piece. Then spread the remaining fabric on the cutting surface, with the right fabric side facing up. Pin the first fabric piece to the fabric, right sides facing, and cut out the second fabric piece (below right).
Large pieces, which are normally cut on a fold but which are shown in the cutting layout as being cut from a single layer of fabric (above right), should be cut as follows: Spread the fabric on the cutting surface with the wrong fabric side facing up. Pin the pattern piece to the fabric (center right), noting the direction of the straight grain. Now fold the fabric along the edge of the pattern piece which is marked with the word FOLD, with the right fabric side facing in. Pin the pattern piece to both fabric layers (below right). If needed, mark the seam and/or hem allowances around the edges of the pattern piece and cut out the fabric piece. Pieces which are to be cut twice should be cut out as described and show for the sleeve, above. Tip: Small pieces which are to be cut on a fold, but which are shown being cut from a single layer of fabric, such as the collar pieces in the cutting layout, above right, can be easily cut if you first trace a second pattern piece. Glue the two pattern pieces together along the marked fold edge and then use the resulting pattern piece!
	You must pay careful attention when cutting fabric pieces for asymmetric garments. All asymmetric pieces must be cut from a single layer of fabric and must be pinned to the right side of the fabric (left). Important: On all burda patterns, the printed side of each pattern piece corresponds to the right side of the fabric. This means that the pattern pieces for asymmetric garments must always be pinned printed side up to the right side of the fabric.

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