TIPS: Stand in front of a mirror and hold each pattern piece to your body. You will see at a glance where adjustments need to be made.

Before you mark any adjustment lines, lay the pattern pieces together as they will be sewn together. You can then easily see where adjustment lines must be marked.

If you are sewing pants with hip yoke pockets, pin the hip yoke piece to the pants front piece (matching the seam numbers) before you mark the adjustment lines. The pocket opening edge should not be shortened. Therefore, the upper adjustment line must be marked directly below the pocket opening.

How can you shorten a pattern piece?

Mark adjustment lines on the pattern pieces as described in this workshop. Mark a second line above each adjustment line and spaced the distance from the first line that the pattern piece is to be shortened here.

Now fold the pattern piece so that these two lines meet. Glue the fold in place (e.g. with adhesive tape) and your pattern piece has been shortened.

Where should you shorten a pattern piece?

Always remember! Adjustment lines must always be marked at right angles to the straight grain arrow or edge, otherwise the pattern pieces will be out of "balance".

• For dresses, jackets, blouses, and coats: Mark adjustment lines at half the armhole height and between armhole and waist (1).
• To make the sleeve fit the shortened armhole, the sleeve cap must be adjusted accordingly (2).
• Sleeves with flat sleeve caps should be narrowed at the side edges, angling in to the original width at the hem edge (2).
• Pants should be shortened by 1 cm (3/8 inch) at the upper line and half the leg length adjustment should be made each above and below the knee (3).
• Shorten skirts at hip level. If they flare or narrow to the hem, adjust the length at half the thigh length.

If you are 1.60 m (5 feet 3 inches) tall, and your vertical measurements are the same as those in our measurement table for "petite sizes", you can shorten pattern pieces by the number of centimeters shown in the illustrations.

If you are shorter than 1.60 m (5 feet 3 inches) or if your vertical measurements differ from those in our table, you must shorten pattern pieces by correspondingly more or less. Baste your adjustments on the Burda measurement table. Adjust tops based on the back length, sleeves based on the arm length, and pants based on the leg length.