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| How to shorten or lengthen patterns.... |
Sometimes it seems bewitched – your favorite style isn’t offered in your size! But that’s not a problem. We’ll show you examples of how to “stretch” patterns in petite sizes to standard sizes and how to shorten standard sizes to fit petite women. The most important thing to remember for the best fit is that the pattern measurements for bust, waist, and hips correspond to your measurements.
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THE PROPORTIONS MUST BE RIGHT!
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GOOD TO KNOW ...
If you are 160 cm (5 feet 3 inches) or 168 cm (5 feet 6 inches) tall and your vertical measurements correspond to those in our Burda size chart, you can turn a petite size into a standard size (or vice versa) by adjusting the pattern pieces at the adjustment lines, by the amount given for each line in the diagrams above (5 mm = 3/16“, 7 mm = 1/4“, 10 mm = 3/8“, 13 mm = 1/2“, 20 mm = 3/4“). If you are taller or shorter or if your vertical measurements differ from those given in the Burda size chart, you must determine the amount of adjustment that is needed yourself. For the bodice, the rule of thumb is: Add or subtract 1/3 of the needed difference at the level of half the armhole and 2/3 of the difference between armhole and waist. Pants should be adjusted by 1 cm (3/8“) at the upper horizontal line and half the difference in leg length should be added (or subtracted) each above and below the knee.
The diagrams above show where the adjustment lines must be drawn (i.e. dashed lines). Important: Always draw the adjustment lines at right angles to the straight grain lines, otherwise your garment will be out of balance. If you have made an adjustment at armhole level, the sleeve must also be adjusted so that it fits in the new armhole. Sleeves with flat sleeve caps can be increased or decreased at the seam, at the sleeve cap edge, then angled to the hem edge (see diagram above). Tip: Stand in front of a mirror and hold the pattern piece up to your body. You will see immediately where adjustments must be made (and by how much).
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HERE‘S HOW TO ADD LENGTH ...
Cut the pattern piece apart along the marked adjustment line. Glue a strip of paper under one cut edge. Draw a line on the paper strip, parallel to the cut edge of the pattern piece and the determined distance away. Now glue the second half of the pattern piece to the paper strip, exactly at your drawn line. Add length at the other line in the same manner. Important: To keep the halves of the pattern piece in the right alignment, also draw the straight grain line on the paper strip. The straight grain lines on the pattern halves and the paper strip must form a continuous line (see illustration below).
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... OR TO SHORTEN A PATTERN
Above or below the adjustment line, draw a parallel line on the pattern piece – the distance is the amount by which you wish to shorten the pattern piece here. Fold the pattern piece so that the original adjustment line meets your drawn line (see illustration below) |
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| WHICH IS WHICH – A SIZE COMPARISON
The difference between standard sizes and petite sizes lies only in the height. Standard sizes apply for a height of 168 cm (5 feet 6 inches). Petite sizes apply for a height of 160 cm (5 feet, 3 inches). The bust, waist, and hip measurements of both size groups are the same.
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| Two versatile zippered jackets for everyday wear. View A is great for leisure ... |
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8.90
£
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