Low necklines are the essence of summer – and a little cleavage is allowed! But cup D and larger  can cause  a top or dress to fit too tightly across the bust. In this workshop we show you how to adjust a pattern to fit a large bust.

TIP: For cup D and larger, we recommend that you do not base your choice of pattern size on your bust size. Instead, choose the next smaller size and adjust the bodice front to fit your personal measurements.

FIRST ADD EXTRA WIDTH ...

• Draw an adjusting line on the pattern piece for the bodice front  (1). Cut the pattern piece along this line and rotate the piece with the armhole to the outside, by the required amount. Draw the shoulder edge as a straight line from the neck edge to the armhole edge. Draw the new side seam (2). On styles with side bust darts, lay the darts closed. The adjustment will cause the side seam of the bodice front to be slightly longer. Measure the side seam edges on the bodice front and bodice back and allow for half of the difference at each armhole. 

• On styles with princess seams, glue the pieces for the bodice front together, from the armhole, along the marked seam lines. Then mark the adjustment line (3). Cut the pattern pieces along this line. Rotate the section with the armhole to the outside, by the required amount, and glue it to a strip of paper. Draw the new princess seam line (4). Cut the pattern pieces apart along this marked line. Again cut the side front along the adjustment line, from the side seam to the princess seam. Glue the original cut edges together again. Draw the side seam (5).
  
  

  ... AND THEN LENGTH
  

• On styles with side bust darts, draw a line at right angles to the center front, up to the dart (6). Cut the pattern piece along this line and along the center of the dart. Spread the sections of the pattern piece apart by the required length and glue them to a strip of paper. Draw the new dart lines (7).
  
• On styles with vertical bust darts, draw two adjustment lines as shown in illustration 8. Cut the pattern piece from the center front to close to the side seam then cut along the center of the dart from the lower edge to close to the point of the dart. Add the required length evenly from the center front to the point of the dart. This will form a wedge from the point of the dart to the side seam (9).
  
• On styles with princess seams, draw an adjustment line at bust level on each pattern piece for the bodice front (10). On the center front piece, add the required length evenly as shown. Cut the side front piece along the marked line, from the princess seam up to close to the side seam. Add the same additional length at the princess seam. This pattern piece remains unchanged at the side seam (11).